What is the hidden link between Big Ben and Ushaw Chapel?

Discover who created the Big Ben Clock face and their connection to Ushaw's Historic Chapel

In a previous journal post I wrote briefly about William Wailes, the stained-glass manufacturer who used his fortune to buy the estate which we now know as Saltwell Park. To many people, Wailes is now a largely forgotten figure whose contribution to late-Victorian society seems relatively unimportant. Yet at the height of success, Wailes was a much celebrated and esteemed manufacturer whose studio produced some of the finest examples of stained glass in England, including this beautiful example in Lichfield Cathedral - Faith Hope & Charity 

and this one, which can be found in St Matthias Church in Richmond: West Wheel Window

It might seem a bit tenuous, but there is a chain of association in my designs, in that the architect and designer Augustus Pugin (1812-52), the man responsible for the clock face of ‘Big Ben’ which features in my London designs, is also someone who worked extensively with William Wailes in the earlier part of his illustrious career. It seems that Pugin was happy to work with Wailes as long as he was affordable, but he soon switched loyalties to another manufacturer when Wailes upped his prices.

I first discovered Pugin’s work when I rented studio space just outside of Durham in the fabulous Ushaw Hall. One interesting aspect of Ushaw is that it was founded in secrecy, at a time when Catholicism was still met with hostility in a predominantly Protestant country. A community of French Catholics, fleeing France for England during the French Revolution, found a sympathetic landowner just north of Durham who sold them land on Ushaw Moor for the purposes of setting up a seminary. They clearly had the means to produce something of real beauty and substance because some of the architecture that you can see at Ushaw really takes your breath away. At the same time, Ushaw also attracted the sympathy and the support of the Catholic Pugin, whose work was being commissioned by more high-profile (and probably much more lucrative) clients all over England. As a result, you can now find these examples of supreme architecture and design which, because of the remote nature of Ushaw, have become something of a hidden treasure.

When I was being given a guided tour by the manager there I was asked if I’d like to see the ‘famous’ chapel, and was then given a brief history of this man whom I’d previously never heard of. It seems that Pugin was a bit of a genius for his time, and if you ever visit Ushaw, you’ll see why. Whilst many people are vaguely aware of Ushaw Hall, I’m not sure they quite realise just how beautiful Pugin’s work is, particularly that which can be found in and around the spectacular St Cuthbert’s Chapel, which is still a functioning place of worship. You don’t really have to be of a religious persuasion to appreciate the beauty of this chapel. Succeeding generations of the Pugin family also contributed to the creation of this truly wonderful space, something they never did at any other location.

The piece above is something that I created during my time at Ushaw. I wanted to synthesise interesting visual elements I found as a way of putting an interesting spin on the heritage of the place. When you go to Ushaw now it is a welcome retreat from a busy world and gives you a feeling of absolute peace and calm. If you ever get the chance, I would strongly recommend that you go there. You might also be supporting any of the many local artists who hire studio space at Ushaw and whose work is on sale on the open studio days that they host there. Work, for example, like this by a good friend of mine, Graham. 

It’s a good illustration of how there is a lot of wonderful work being done throughout our region, which can often be overlooked.

To give you some idea of the kind of people who now populate the studios at Ushaw, and to get a sense of what eventually led them to this place, I asked Graham to talk about his journey and his work,. This is what he had to say:

"I've enjoyed the creative process since childhood but, but having pursued a
scientific career, when people ask when I became an artist it's an impossible question. I know it has always been my escape. We moved to the Durham Dales in 2006 and I found I had more free time to express myself between consultancy jobs. In 2019 I moved into Studio 70 at Ushaw, sharing the workspace with two other artist friends. I primarily work in pastels, inspired by the region’s diverse natural history and my affinity with it. I'm lucky enough to live in the countryside with so many opportunities to encounter the local wildlife and livestock. I love that moment, however fleeting, when I look into the eyes of my subject and feel a connection."

Thank you Graham, and good luck at the next open studios event: (Ushaw Open Studios on Saturday 4th April, 11 am to 3 pm!!)

While you are there check out the spectacular chapel.

Finally, I asked a friend of mine Alfie Joey also known as The Speak Easy Guy to share his own unique insight into Ushaw, based on the time he spent there some years ago: 

"I’ve often described my time as training for the priesthood at Ushaw College as attending Hogwarts for trainee priests. They even had their own unique sports; instead of Quiditch there were gigantic hand ball courts (still there) and their own violent version of rounders called CAT.

Just west of Bear Park in County Durham we were quite isolated, or if it snowed, completely cut off- the snow plough never came our way. This was a rather large, ominous building, the biggest seminary in the country at the time. Though it was steeped in ritual and history, many of my vivid memories were playing football against Durham University colleges, my many victories on the snooker table (they had a billiard room) and my time playing all kinds of parts in the drama hall- I was in a major production every year- we even put on ‘One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest’.

I was delighted it opened its doors as a tourist venue, conference centre and a place where artists thrive."